Showing posts with label tool care. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tool care. Show all posts

Garden tool care

by Michael Smith (Veshengro)

tool-careLike the hunter who uses his so-called season time, when game may not be pursued, to maintain his weapons and kit so the gardener must use his quiet season – mostly winter time – to maintain his equipment.

Regular cleaning and sharpening of any cutting tools, and that includes hoes and spades, should be routine anyway and tools should be cleaned – if possible – at the end of the “working day”. There is, however, some maintenance that will take longer and winter is the time for the gardener to do these jobs.

In order for your tools to be in top condition and to last for a very long time a little tender loving care, aka TLC, - or a bit more than just a little – will go an awful long way.

Power tools, whether lawnmower, brush cutter, grass trimmer or hedge cutter, should go to their annual service at this time, unless you are well capable of doing it yourself. And if you use a human-powered reel mower then that should also be serviced but most handy gardeners should be able to do (most of) that themselves. However, the cylinder may, depending on use, need a regrind and that can only be properly done on the right kind of work bench. The blades of a rotary mower, on the other hand, can easily be resharpened by anyone with the right knowledge and skills with only a good mill bastard file.

Hand pruning shears, aka secateurs, and loppers should be throughly cleaned and hand reground (Do not use a bench grinder or any other power grinder). With the right kind of tools this can even be done without the need of taking them apart, as long as no serious regrinding is required.

In the case of the latter it will mean taking the secateurs or loppers apart and regrinding the blade while clamping the blade down onto a workbench. The same as above goes for grass and hedge shears.

When sharpening complete and, if need, tools are reassembles – hopefully correctly – then all moving parts and springs need to be given a thorough coating with oil or even thin grease. Blades too should be coated in oil or thin grease and then the tools can be put away, ideally wrapped in greased Kraft paper (Oh dear, am I old-fashioned).

Digging and border spades and forks should be thoroughly cleaned and all rust – as far as possible – removed with a wire brush, wire wool and emery cloth. Spades should then be reground (by hand) using a file, the metal parts oiled and the wooden handles coated with vegetable oil. They should then be hung up in the shed. The same goes for your hoes, your edging iron/edging knife, etc.

Your most valuable hand tool, as you will already have discovered, for the garden is the humble garden trowel and for that very reason alone it should receive lots of TLC. Where would any gardener be without at least one good one?

Basically you treat your trowel (or trowels) (and other hand-held metal tools) in the same way as you do your spade, etc. in that you give it/them a thorough clean and them oil them in the same way. Also check the handles, if of wood, for any splinters and such and remove using glass paper. Afterwards apply vegetable oil and the wrap in Kraft paper and store indoors.

Wooden garden tools: There are few wooden tools in the garden – sadly – today. Almost everything has – nowadays – been replaced by and with plastic though we are beginning to see somewhat of resurgence in wooden tools for the garden and in the garden, such a dibbers, dibblets, trugs, baskets and a few others.

Not so long ago even wheelbarrows were made of wood, almost entirely even and they served us well. Yes, they were a great deal heavier than today's ones made of steel, aluminum and even plastic with their pneumatic tires but they had less of an impact on the environment in the making and were sturdier.

When it comes to the care of wooden tools first and foremost they should be cleaned well at the end of the working day and every now and then be treated with vegetable oil (or even a beeswax mix) to remain in good condition.

During the end of gardening year maintenance they should be thoroughly cleaned and rubbed down gently with fine wire wool after which they should be place in a “bath” of vegetable oil to refurbish them properly. They should then, after some hours, wiped down (without removing all oil) and placed, wrapped in oil cloth, in a dry place until they are required again.

If you look after your garden tools – and that goes for almost everything else – your garden tools will look after you in the garden and will last for a very long time (as long as they are well made).

© 2013

Choosing an ax and caring for it

by Michael Smith (Veshengro)

Many people, even homesteaders, and here, obviously and especially the beginning homesteaders, seem to have little to now idea as to what makes a good ax and how to actually use it and care for it.

14707136253286325_coJBDjCm_f Especially sharpening of one, in the same way as sharpening a knife or other cutting implement, seems to be something that they think they know but actually don't and the same goes for caring for an ax or knife.

Axes are not made – generally – of stainless steel and thus do need keeping clean (but even a stainless steel blade does) and should have, as far as I am concerned, oil applied to the head every now and then.

The same, as to oiling, goes for the handles of wood. However, you don't use the same oil there as you would for the metal. Having said that, on the other hand, you can use vegetable oil for oiling the metal and the wood, only never use metal oil on wood.

The ideal medium for oiling is vegetable oil, any type, and I, personally, drain the oil that is left in bottles and which one normally cannot get out and keep this for treating wood and also the metal parts of garden tools.

The US Forest Service has a small valuable manual as to the ax, it's uses and care, called “An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual” and it is available free as a PDF at the link given below.

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/pdf/pdf99232823.pdf

Right-click the link and “save link” to your hard drive. It is less than 70 pages and well worth a download.

© 2012

Cleaning the blades of secateurs, pruning shear and loppers

by Michael Smith

All of those cutting tools get clogged up at the blades with tree sap, and some of it worse than others, during the working day.

Aside from the fact that this sap tends too stop the secateurs, for instance, from working properly and makes the blades stick, especially in the case of bypass secateurs, it also, if left on the blades, will cause the blades to corrode.

Many manufacturers recommend that you use their brand (or some other) sap removing agent which, obviously, is not a cheap option. Then again neither is having a pair of expensive secateurs die a death because of lack of care.

I have found that you do not need to buy expensive sap removers; baby wipes will do the job as effective as any sap remover and, as those contain lanolin, will also put a coat of that oil on to the blade. Nigh on two birds with the one proverbial stone.

Those wipes work wonders on the blades, so I have found, and if you buy the most basic ones of the wipes, such as Sainsbury's Basics version of them, they cost about a penny a wipe. Not something too worry about using, I am sure.

On the other hand you can get it cheaper still. A cloth impregnated with vinegar, whether brewed malt vinegar, wine vinegar or whichever other kind, is irrelevant. Again here you could buy the cheapest available, as I do as a disinfectant in the use of washing dishes, for instance. At 15p a bottle it is not a fortune either.

The only thing to remember is that if removing tree sap from secateurs and other cutting tool that you will have to put some oil or grease onto the blade afterwards. Ascetic acid will not be too kind to the steel if the blades are left uncoated. A little bit of Vaseline on the finger and rubbed over the b lade will do nicely as will a little chainsaw oil or such.

There you have it: no need for expensive sap remover and still clean secateurs that will go on and on.

P.S. This also works with knives, etc.

© M Smith (Veshengro), February 2009
<>