Goosefoot, aka Fat Hen, Lamb's Quarters (Eat your weeds)

Goosefoot: A Nutritious and Abundant Wild Edible Weed

You are wasting free food. Spinach is a cool season crop, so it grows best in the cooler months rather than in summer, but you could be eating this instead. 

Lamb's quarters, also known as Wild Spinach, Goosefoot, and several other names, thrives in the sun. The beauty of it is that you don't have to plant it. It just shows up everywhere. And it is way more nutritious than store-bought spinach, or even home-grown. 

It has twice the vitamins B1 and B2, three times the vitamin C, three times more calcium, five times more magnesium, and more protein and iron than spinach or cabbage. 

Oh, and it's a close relative to quinoa. Indigenous communities used to gather the seeds and use them as grains. You can too. Quick identifier, it's also called goose foot because the leaves look like the foot of a goose. It is part of the Amaranth family of plants, just like quinoa. In fact, Amaranth, even the colored variety grown as a decorative bedding plant, can be eaten in the same way. Beware though when growing Amaranth, as it spreads like the proverbial wild fire. 

So stop spraying it, stop mowing it, and start harvesting. It is right now probably, if it is summer where you are, growing everywhere in your garden and you regard it as a weed and pull it up, mow it down or spray it to death. 

Did you know that Goosefoot was a staple “crop” of the Punjab, allowed to grow with the then long stalk wheat and got people over the hungry gap before the wheat was available, and it was also generally used as a vegetable. The so-called “green revolution” did away with this as the Goosefoot would outpace the short stalk wheat in growth and hence the Goosefoot had to be eliminated, leading to malnutrition. So much for the “green revolution” in farming. 

More about Goosefoot below.

Goosefoot, a common "weed" found across much of the world, is more than just an unwanted garden intruder. Belonging to the Chenopodium genus, several species – most notably Chenopodium album (commonly known as lamb’s quarters or white goosefoot) – are valued for their nutritional content and versatility as a wild edible. 

Goosefoot has been consumed by indigenous cultures and traditional societies for centuries, and it's gaining renewed interest among foragers, herbalists, and homesteaders.

Identification

Goosefoot plants are typically:

Annual herbs growing 1–6 feet tall.

Recognizable by their triangular to diamond-shaped leaves that resemble the foot of a goose (hence the name).

The leaves are often coated in a whitish, mealy powder, especially on younger growth.

Tiny, green, inconspicuous flowers cluster on the tops of stems and leaf axils.

Seeds are small, black, and encased in papery husks.

Note: It’s important not to confuse goosefoot with similar-looking toxic plants. Always positively identify any wild plant before consuming.

Edibility

Nearly the entire plant is edible at various stages of growth:

Leaves & Stems

Tender young leaves and stems can be eaten raw in salads or cooked like spinach.

Cooking reduces naturally occurring oxalates and saponins, which in high quantities can be mildly toxic.

Leaves are rich in vitamins A, C, and K, as well as calcium, iron, and protein.

Seeds

Resembling a wild cousin to quinoa (which is also in the Chenopodium genus), goosefoot seeds can be:

Collected, dried, and cooked like a grain.

Used in porridge, ground into flour, or added to soups.

Seeds contain protein, fiber, and essential amino acids but should be rinsed or soaked to remove saponins.

Foraging Tips

Season: Goosefoot thrives from late spring through fall, depending on climate.

Habitat: Found in gardens, roadsides, fields, disturbed soils, and abandoned lots.

Harvesting: Clip young tops and leaves regularly for the best texture and flavor. Mature seeds can be harvested in late summer or early fall.

Preparation Ideas

Sauté leaves with garlic and olive oil for a wild-style spinach dish.

Add to soups, stews, stir-fries, or omelets.

Blend into smoothies for a nutritional boost (in moderation, due to oxalates).

Roast or grind seeds as a grain alternative.

Dehydrate and store leaves for use in winter.

Cautions

Goosefoot contains oxalic acid and saponins, especially in mature leaves and seeds. Occasional consumption is safe for most people, but those with kidney issues or prone to kidney stones should limit intake.

Always harvest from clean, pesticide-free areas. Avoid roadsides or contaminated urban soils. 

Cultural and Historical Notes

Historically, species of goosefoot have been used as food across Europe, North America, Asia, and Africa. In North America, archaeological evidence shows that Chenopodium species were part of the Eastern Agricultural Complex, a group of plants cultivated by indigenous peoples before maize arrived. In India and Nepal, the plant (known locally as bathua) is still widely eaten and featured in traditional dishes.

Conclusion

Often overlooked and undervalued, goosefoot is a nutrient-rich, versatile wild edible that deserves a place in the modern forager's toolkit. With proper identification and preparation, this humble weed can provide free, sustainable, and healthy food straight from your backyard or nearby field.

While it will establish itself without help, and this is just a suggestion, you could always harvest some of the seeds and put them into a raised bed or some containers for you to ensure you have some and know that it is safe from pesticides and what-have-you, and actually turn it into a garden crop. Why not? 

2025 © Michael Smith 

Glass Recycling – A Scam

You will have noticed that I did not put a question mark after the word scam and that is because it is.

Around 90%, if not more, of all glass collected for recycling, in our region at least, is not recycled at all but downcycled in that it is not being turned into new glass but is ground down for road aggregate. 

When glass bottles, and glass jars, are not separated by color and all end up broken, while being tipped into the collection vehicles, into the same container no one can tell me that that stuff is made to make new glass. It does not work. 

A huge waste of a valuable resource. 

We once had it right, years ago, when all glass bottles came with a deposit and went back to be cleaned, sterilized and then refilled, until such a time that they were actually broken. As far as milk bottles are concerned that was not until that long ago. The milkman brought the full ones and collected the empties. 

During the Second World War in Britain even glass jars were collected to be reused by the factories and this could still be done today as there is just a number of size openings of such jars and thus required lids. But no, it seems to be too labor intensive not considering the cost to the environment. 

Even when that was no longer the case, as in the case of glass jars, not all that many were ever tossed out because they were being reused in the home for all manner of things (and I still do this today). 

They, depending on the size, where used to store dry goods, from beans, peas, lentils, to pasta, oats, and even flour, in case of the large ones. Smaller ones were employed for storage of the likes of nails and screws, buttons, and whatever else. Some were also used as drinking vessels and this was the case when I was a child and is still the case in my home to this very day. 

Broken, the shards of bottles and jar became a woodworking tool, namely that of a scraper for so-called glass shave. It works by far better than a steel card scraper. The only disadvantage to a steel card scraper is that the glass shard cannot be resharpened but then again that matters little as there is always ample material available. 

When it came to glass bottles in the days when there was a deposit on them even if they were tossed out by people into the ditches and whatever they did not stay there long. Kids would soon pick them up and take them back to the shops to get the deposit for pocket money. Almost every child did so when I was a kid. 

But, apparently, reintroducing a deposit scheme for glass bottles would be too difficult, according to government because one would not know whether it would ever work in this country. That is entirely disregarding the fact that we once had it and it worked well. You just could not make it up. There is no political will to do it and that is all. 

Therefore glass recycling is and will remain a scam. 

2025 © Michael Smith  

Why we should stop killing weeds in lawn

For decades, the perfect green lawn has been a symbol of pride and suburban success. But behind the pristine turf lies a hidden cost: chemical treatments, biodiversity loss, and environmental damage – all in the name of eliminating “weeds.” It’s time we rethink the war on weeds and consider what we’re really doing to our yards, our communities, and the planet.

What’s considered a ‘weed’ is essentially a plant that happens to grow where we don’t want it to. But really, isn’t that just an arbitrary designation? Before the widespread use of herbicides, did we really fret over weeds in lawns? No, we didn’t. We treated all plants equally, unless they posed a significant threat, like Japanese Knotweed.

After World War II, with the rise of commercial interests, herbicides became the go-to solution for achieving the ‘perfect’ lawn. But who decided what’s perfect anyway? The push for monoculture lawns devoid of any plants deemed undesirable was driven not by lawn experts or environmentalists, but by profit-driven commercialism. And where has it led us? To a cycle of endless pursuit of an unattainable perfection, at great cost to both us and the environment.

In farming, weed control is a different story driven by economic factors, but we’re focusing on lawns here. We’re not talking about pristine showcase lawns or lawns in international competitions; we’re talking about the lawns that form part of our social lives, property values, and the ecosystem around us.

Why are weeds such a nuisance in lawns? Well, our native grasses naturally compete with and inhibit the growth of these so-called weeds. So why do we feel the need to intervene with herbicides, especially when they’re often applied incorrectly and cause more harm than good?

The truth is, weeds have a place in a healthy lawn. But the harmful chemicals used to eradicate them do not.

It’s time to embrace a more natural approach that respects the balance of nature and eliminates unnecessary damage to both our lawns and the environment. As Derek Trotter would say, “You know it makes sense”.

1. Weeds are essential for pollinators

Dandelions, clover, and plantain may be classified as weeds, but they are lifelines for bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. Many of these plants bloom early in the season when little else is available, offering critical nectar and pollen sources. With pollinator populations in steep decline globally, protecting their habitats – even small ones in suburban lawns – can make a real difference.

Letting a few dandelions grow could help save local bees and, in addition to that the roots of the dandelions also do some valuable work in the soil. That is apart from the fact that every part of the plant is edible and, in fact, very good.

2. Herbicides harm more than just weeds

Most weed-control products contain powerful chemicals like glyphosate, 2,4-D, or dicamba. While marketed as safe, these compounds have been linked to:

* Soil degradation

* Water contamination

* Reproductive harm in wildlife

* Increased cancer risks in humans

Runoff from treated lawns ends up in streams and groundwater, impacting not only ecosystems but also human health. These risks far outweigh the aesthetic gain of a weed-free lawn.

3. Weeds can improve soil health

Far from being nuisances, many weeds are signs that the soil is trying to heal itself. Plants like dandelion and dock have deep roots that break up compacted soil and pull nutrients from deeper layers. These nutrients are returned to the surface when the plant decomposes, improving soil quality over time.

In essence, weeds are nature’s way of regenerating poor soil – free of charge.

4. Clover and other weeds reduce the need for fertilizer

Clover, once a common and accepted part of lawn seed mixes, naturally adds nitrogen to the soil. This makes your lawn greener and more drought-resistant – without synthetic fertilizers. Ironically, it was only labeled a “weed” when herbicide companies needed to market products that couldn’t distinguish between clover and unwanted species.

Reintroducing clover can save money and reduce your environmental footprint.

5. Lawns are ecological dead zones

Traditional lawns are monocultures that offer little food or shelter for insects, birds, or wildlife. When we kill weeds, we’re doubling down on this sterile environment. By contrast, a lawn with a mix of native plants and “weeds” can become a vibrant mini-ecosystem teeming with life.

A biodiverse lawn is healthier, more resilient, and far more interesting than a uniform stretch of grass.

6. Weeds are resilient – and that’s a good thing

Weeds thrive in tough conditions: poor soil, high traffic, drought. Their resilience is an asset, not a flaw. By embracing hardy, self-sustaining plants, we create landscapes that require less water, less maintenance, and fewer chemicals – all while staying green and alive.

7. The cultural shift is already happening

Movements like “No Mow May,” “Pollinator Pathways,” and “Rewilding” are gaining momentum. Homeowners, cities, and even golf courses are beginning to recognize the value of more natural landscapes. In many places, ordinances are being updated to allow wilder yards — and in some, native plantings are even encouraged.

The idea of the “perfect lawn” is evolving — and that’s a good thing.

🌼 Conclusion: Rethinking the lawn

Weeds are not enemies. They are signs of life, resilience, and ecological potential. By choosing to stop killing weeds in our lawns, we can support biodiversity, reduce chemical use, improve soil health, and redefine what a beautiful yard really looks like.

In the past so-called lawns, even bowling greens, croquet lawns, and other grassy areas would always have included weeds of all kinds, because that was before Monsanto (Bayer) & Co. and herbicides.

When did we really become that obsessed about weeds in the lawn. When after the Vietnam War Monsanto had no longer a ready market for its defoliant, namely glyphosate, renamed it Round Up and marketed it to gardeners and the landscape industry.

Before that, if you didn't want the weeds you dug them out and in your patio (they were rare until not that long ago) or pathways you also dug them out or removed them. They always would come back though, because they do happen to be rather resilient. Over time they may get weakened and, maybe, die off, but that is just a maybe.

It’s time to trade perfection for purpose – and let a little wildness back into our lives and also discover the weeds for ourselves, as many of them are edible and make very good eating indeed.

2025 © Michael Smith

The Slow Bicycle

 by Michael Smith (Veshengro)

The ONE BIKE EVERYONE NEEDS but DON'T EVEN KNOW they want! 

What is a slow bicycle?

Today electric bicycles, and the only ones that are actually, in the UK, at least, are considered as standard bicycles are pedelecs, that is to say electrically assisted pedal bikes, but, as far as I am concerned those have several serious drawbacks. True E-bikes and so-called speed pedelecs are considered in the UK as motor vehicles and require at least a moped license and thus also a license plate.

But back to the drawbacks of pedelecs (and they also apply to the other types). 

Firstly they are much more difficult to maintain. Not at the general stages as they are more-or-less bicycles, as far as fixing a tire and such are concerned, but when it comes to the electrical bits you will, more than likely, need the help of a mechanic who is converse in the workings of one of those, ideally of the one you happen to own. 

Then comes the battery. You have to charge it and maintain it and it has a limited range. In addition to that you may need a new battery in at worst every 3 years, at best every 5 or 6 years, which will set you back about a third of the purchase price of a new bike of that kind. The cost of the battery generally covers the purchase of a new slow bike any day, as the cost is between £350 to $800. You get some good slow bikes for that kind of money. 

Charging the battery, although not all that expensive, over time adds up. Having a limit to your range with most of them on low power being around 35 miles and at high power around 15 miles only is also a limit. This, therefore, this limits the use of such a bike to really only a short distance runabout and does not make for a bike that you can go touring with unless you carry a couple of spare batteries. 

The only advantage over an ordinary, often referred to in England, push bike, is that you have the power assistance (your speed in the UK is limited to 18 mph) which makes for easier cycling in hilly areas, for sure. 

However, alone the purchase price of a pedelec (I will keep calling it thus and will not use E-bike) is anywhere in the region of £1,000 and upwards. Some of the better ones are in the region of £7,500+. Now for that kind of money you get a lot of slow bicycles. 

So, what is a slow bicycle? Well, to say it simply, it is an ordinary bicycle with or without gears or speeds. Having a slow bicycle that only has one speed – which about equals the so-called second gear on the Sturmey-Archer/Kienzle kind of system – is the best as it is a lot easier to maintain with a lot less to go wrong. 

The advantages of a slow bicycle outweigh any disadvantages and the advantages start at the cost and continue over ease of maintenance (all of it if you read up on it or watch some YouTube videos).

OK, you need to pedal a little harder to get up a hill, even if you have a slow bicycle with gears, though my recommendation is to have a single speed free wheel one, and any of the geared ones can be converted to such, even without changing the back wheel, as long, that is, that it has a horizontal dropout and and not a vertical one. In the latter case you will need a chain tensioner but they can be gotten quite cheaply. You will have to shorten the chain to the correct length when converting a bike but the chain tool required for that is quite cheap and will always come in handy. 

But let's return to the hills. If you can't pedal up it then you can get up and push. I found that frequently when I used to do just that – I normally always did – I was overtaking, on foot, those that were struggling to get up the hill cycling, like the maniacs, in the lowest gears. It is called a “push bike” after all, that's why I push when it gets too difficult. We always did also as kids when there was but one speed on the bikes.

The slow bicycle has a great deal going for it and it advantages very much outweigh its disadvantages. The greatest advantages are the costs – they are cheap in comparison to pedelecs – and the easy of maintenance and repair. 

Personally I have acquired so many normal, if I may call them that, bicycles, though often mountain bikes with 15-21 speeds, found abandoned in the park, which I then have rebuilt, always converting them to single speed. Thus most of my bicycles have cost me nothing but time to work on them and maybe a new innertube or such. 

© 2025